BMC Bolt Research by Dan Middleton BMC Technical
BMC Bolt Research by Dan Middleton BMC Technical Officer BMC Technical Conference 2008 1
Some history… BMC Technical Conference 2008 2
In 2007, the BMC launched the Better Bolts Campaign. BMC Technical Conference 2008 3
The aim of the campaign? BMC Technical Conference 2008 4
To replace bolts like these… BMC Technical Conference 2008 5
Old belay bolt, Hodge Close BMC Technical Conference 2008 6
Sheared bolt, galvanic corrosion BMC Technical Conference 2008 7
With bolts like these… BMC Technical Conference 2008 8
Modern glue in bolt BMC Technical Conference 2008 9
Good expansion bolt, Yorkshire BMC Technical Conference 2008 10
How do we achieve this? BMC Technical Conference 2008 11
1. We provide good bolts to donate to bolt funds. BMC Technical Conference 2008 12
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In 2007 and 2008, we have supplied: 1, 500 expansion bolts 2, 000 resin bolts 250 resin belays BMC Technical Conference 2008 15
Bolt funds make a bid for bolts. A BMC panel decides which bids succeed. BMC Technical Conference 2008 16
2. We raise the profile of bolt funds. BMC Technical Conference 2008 17
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3. We educate & inform climbers. BMC Technical Conference 2008 19
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Bolting workshop, Cumbria BMC Technical Conference 2008 22
4. We conduct research into bolts. BMC Technical Conference 2008 23
How effective are bolts when placed in rock? BMC Technical Conference 2008 24
How much do different bolts weaken over time ? BMC Technical Conference 2008 25
Does repeated loading weaken bolts ? BMC Technical Conference 2008 26
Bolt testing apparatus • Hilti 2000 Anchor tester • Custom load bridge BMC Technical Conference 2008 27
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Bolt testing apparatus - limitations. • 20 k. N maximum load. • Axial loading (pullout) only. BMC Technical Conference 2008 29
Planned tests. after 1 week 1 year 5 years 10 years Cyclic loading BMC Technical Conference 2008 30
Test results 1 week. BMC Technical Conference 2008 31
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Petzl 12 mm expansion Bolt type Rock / location Maximum axial load k. N Failure mode Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry 20 20 20 None BMC Technical Conference 2008 33
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Petzl 10 mm expansion Bolt type Rock / location Maximum axial load k. N Failure mode Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry 20 20 19 None Pullout BMC Technical Conference 2008 35
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Bolt type Rock / location Maximum axial load k. N Failure mode Fixe 10 mm AISI 304, epoxy acrylate cartridge resin Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry 20 None 20 19 None Resin/Anchor bond BMC Technical Conference 2008 37
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Technicalnot Conference 2008 into all notches 39 Pullout at 19 k. N, BMCglue set
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Bolt type Rock / location Maximum axial load k. N Failure mode Fixe 10 mm AISI 304, epoxy acrylate hammer-in capsule Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry 20 20 20 None BMC Technical Conference 2008 41
One arm failed first, at 13. 5 k. N BMC Technical Conference 2008 42
Bolt type Staple, Hilti HY 150 resin Rock / location Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry Maximum axial load k. N 16. 5 13. 5 Resin/Anchor Failure mode bond BMC Technical Conference 2008 43
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Bolt type Rock / location Maximum axial load k. N Failure mode Bolt Products 8 mm x 100 mm, epoxy acrylate cartridge resin Limestone, Horseshoe Quarry 20 20 20 None BMC Technical Conference 2008 45
Distortion after 20 k. N pullout test BMC Technical Conference 2008 46
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