BASIC BLOCK PATTERN Basic blocks Pattern its Different

BASIC BLOCK PATTERN Basic blocks Pattern & its Different Types. Basic Measurements.

Block Patterns ■ A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. ■ The function of block or foundation is to provide a simple outline of bodice, skirt or sleeve, from which every kind of style pattern can be developed. ■ It also serve as a map or chart for recording useful information about the proportions, shape and even posture of a figure, average or individual. ■ From a well planned and detailed block a skilled designercutter can usually understand the type of figure. ■ This extra information adds considerably to the speed and accuracy of pattern designing.

BLOCK PATTERNS ■ The art of good cutting depends on : – Reliability of the blocks, from point of view of line and fit – Information recorded on the blocks – Skill of cutter manipulating the blocks. ■ It is important that basic structure of a block should be such that any necessary adjustment can be introduced easily, without upsetting the balance of whole pattern

Different types of block Pattern ■ There are different types of block varying in details, in presentation and even in method of construction. 1. Standard Block 2. Simplified Block 3. Trade Block 4. Tailoring Block

Standard Block ■ Standard block is basic foundation which follows the natural lines of the figure. ■ Its main objective is to provide a reliable and lasting basis of correct proportions and fit from which more specialized blocks can be produced when necessary, and by which every type of pattern can be checked. ■ A standard block may be neutral, i. e it not need fashion emphasized fashion exaggerations, but it never be oldfashioned in line and fit. ■ Standard block originated more then 45 years ago. ■ A few adjustment were made to conform to recent definite changes in the shape and posture of average figure. (e. g change of balance or of position and slope of shoulder). ■ The standard block is the basis from which other foundations are developed. ■ It is also suitable for teaching advanced pattern making.

Simplified Block ■ The simplified block differs from standard in that it is produced by a simpler method of drafting. ■ This makes it more suitable for school and technical classes, where the primary object of drafting is not to understand bodice construction, but to have reliable pattern for practical dressmaking. ■ Such a block pattern, made to individual measurements, can be tested at a fitting and adjusted to suit individual requirements.

Trade Block ■ The trade block is an adaption of the standard block made to suit various requirement of the wholesale manufacturing trade. ■ The proportions of such a block may follow one of the numerous size charts. ■ It will have definite turnings (seam allowance) added round all edges and would provide a clear system of balance marks or notches for the accurate assembling of the garment.

Tailoring Block ■ It is also an adaption of standard block which introduces a few special features and proportions characteristics of most jacket patterns drafted by tailors.

Primary and Secondary blocks ■ The three primary blocks are the bodice, the straight sleeve and the standard skirt. ■ From these primary blocks one can obtain such secondary blocks as the shaped and tight sleeves.

MEASUREMENT

A - Bust - Measure the bust at the fullest part. Measure all around the body (total circumference). B - Waist - Measure the waist where the body bends. It helps to bend side to identify exactly where to measure. You can put an elastic band around the waist to mark the correct placement. C - Hip - Measure the hips at the fullest part, usually around the seat. D - High Hip - Measure around the fullest part, about 3 - 4" below the waist. This is helpful when fitting a slim skirt or pants (to get an accurate idea of the shape of the hip, or the belly). E - Front Waist Length - Start at the shoulder (right next to the base of the neck), and measure to the waist, measuring over the fullest part of the bust. F - Back Waist Length - Measure from the base of the neck (in the center, not the side), to the center of the waistline. G - Arm Length - Measure from the top of the arm (find the bone at the shoulder/top of arm) to the wrist (find the bone at the side of the wrist), WITH THE ELBOW BENT. It's important to keep the elbow bent to allow for movement when you make a sleeve.