Association of British Climbing Walls Training Trust l

Association of British Climbing Walls Training Trust l NICAS Launched as an Achievement Scheme in 2008 had 23 Primary & 40 Awarding Centres l NICAS became an Award Scheme in 2012 l 35 Primary Centres & 198 Awarding Centres delivering NICAS around the UK l Since 2008 there have been 54, 000+ candidates registered with the scheme l Rebranding of the ABC Training Trust as NICAS l NIBAS Launched in October 2014 with 18 Primary Centres l

National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes

NICAS/NIBAS – the low down l Administered by the ABC Training Trust (NICAS) – as technical experts for indoor climbing l Recognised by the BMC, MCof. S, MI, MTUK & UIAA l As widely recognised & accessible as possible l Not for profit

NICAS/NIBAS – What’s New l l l l NICAS Handbook Review 2012 next review will be 2016 New NICAS Logbooks, Pages Welsh & Visually Impaired Part 1 Logbook Team of NICAS Technical Experts NICAS supported Moderation 2013 Team of NICAS/NIBAS Coaches NICAS/NIBAS Resources l Teaching Plans l Grit Kids (vimeo. com/nicas) Centralised Database 2013 NICAS Ambassadors NICAS Exit Routes NICAS in GCSE & SQA NICAS Level 5 Awarding Centres NIBAS & Pre-NICAS

New NICAS Costs 2014 • To Candidates: – Part 1: £ 5 maximum – Part 2: £ 8 maximum • This includes registration, log book and certificates • Awarding Centre registration: – – – Level 1 - £ 30 per year Level 2 - £ 35 per year Level 3 - £ 50 per year Level 4 - £ 60 per year Level 5 - £ 75 per year PC - £ 100 per year (Reg £ 450)

NICAS – Brief Overview • • • • Level 1 and 2 booklet (supervised) Level 3 -5 logbook (unsupervised but need witness name/signature) Entry at any level Certificate awarded after completion of assessment criteria at each level Expected minimum times – 3, 8, 20, 30, 40 hrs Focussed on proficiency not performance levels 1 & 2 Levels progressively introduce skills, knowledge and responsibility Provides a record of achievement Provides developmental structure – including beyond the scheme (Exit Routes) Climbs/ boulder problems can be practiced Can only be logged as a ground up ascent with no rests For levels 1 and 2 some climbs can be repeated if there is progression Candidates should log climbs/problems appropriate for their ability The award is fully transferable between Awarding Centres Levels can be used to gauge proficiency but are not competency tests Centres are still responsible for their own registration procedures

NICAS & Schools

NICAS & GCSE Edexcel • • Ed. Excel have formally adopted NICAS as their syllabus for the GCSE PE (Indoor Climbing) as part of Adventurous Activities – may be extended to outdoors. Ed. Excel refer to schools and academic organisations as Centres. – • In order to use the Ed. Excel Indoor Climbing GCSE (PE) syllabus, the onus is on the academic organisation to seek approval from Ed. Excel. – – – • • “Centre” refers to the academic organisation and not to a NICAS Primary centre, Awarding Centre or climbing wall. The Centre must contact Ed. Excel to say they want to do the indoor version of GCSE climbing. Ed. Excel will send them the syllabus along with other necessary documentation under the ‘Meeting Local Needs’ basis. The Centre take this syllabus to their local climbing facility – a NICAS AC or PC – who may then deliver and assess for GCSE using the criteria laid down by Ed. Excel. Candidates may follow the Ed. Excel syllabus without being registered for NICAS, however they will not receive NICAS certificates as they achieve each level. ACs and PCs may wish to use this as a sales opportunity to register candidates for NICAS from the day they start their GCSE climbing training, so that they receive independent accreditation of their achievement which is separate to their GCSE grade.

Edexcel Issues • • Not enough time Too many belays Too many climbs Introducing grades

National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes two separate products NICAS National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes NIBAS

National Indoor Bouldering Award Scheme l l l Administered by the ABC Training Trust (NICAS) – as technical experts for indoor climbing NIBAS Screening Committee review all applications Recognised by the BMC, MCof. S, MI, MTUK & UIAA As widely recognised & accessible as possible Not for profit

NIBAS - the basics • • • • NIBAS will be a 5 part award, split into two parts Level 1 & 2 can be run on Traverse Walls Entry at any level (NICAS Level 3 Boulder Problems may allow evidence for NIBAS Level 1) Certificate awarded after completion of assessment criteria at each level 1, 2 & 3 focus on skill competence not performance Levels progressively introduce skills, knowledge and understanding Provides a record of achievement Provides developmental structure Boulder problems can be practiced Can only be logged as a ground up ascent with no rests For levels 1 and 2 some problems can be repeated if there is progression Candidates should log problems appropriate for their ability The award is fully transferable between Awarding Centres Levels can be used to gauge proficiency but are not competency tests Centres are still responsible for their own registration procedures

NIBAS – the Levels Part 1 1. New Boulderer – an entry level award for candidates who wish to learn what bouldering is as a physical activity and how to use a bouldering wall safely. 2. Foundation Boulderer – aimed at helping the candidate to understand how a bouldering wall works, basic preparation and control while bouldering, with an introduction to equipment and movement skills. 3. Competent Boulderer – corresponding to most bouldering-only centres’ “membership” standards. Aimed at ensuring a candidate possesses the knowledge and skill to boulder safely at any bouldering facility and operate in a responsible manner. Part 2 4. Skilled Boulderer – aimed at developing a self-motivated boulderer who has a wide range of skills and has reached a high level of competence, with a desire to progress by identifying and setting goals. 5. Performance Boulderer – the top level award that focuses on improving performance, with advanced skills and knowledge of training and bouldering as well as experience of local and national competitions.

NIBAS Costs • To Candidates: – Part 1: £ 6 maximum – Part 2: £ 6 maximum – Binder: £ 3 maximum • This includes registration, log book and certificates • Awarding Centre registration: – – – Level 1 - £ 30 per year Level 2 - £ 35 per year Level 3 - £ 50 per year Level 4 - £ 60 per year Level 5 - £ 75 per year PC - £ 100 per year (Reg £ 450)

Instructor Requirements

Facility Requirements - Overview 1. New Boulderer – – Climbing surface 2 m high x 6 m wide Crash surface to meet BS: EN 1176 -1 2. Foundation Boulderer – – Permanent structure of length 12 m Ability to set 20 boulder problems that offer a range of difficulty to participants Wall must have 3 changes of angles across its surface Crash landing surface to meet both BS: EN 1176 -1 and BS: EN 12572 -2 3. Competent Boulderer – – Dedicated climbing facility with a dedicated bouldering area that has a crash matting surface size of >40 m 2 meeting regulations (as above) 30 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty that are reset at least quarterly 4. Skilled Boulderer – – – Dedicated climbing facility with a dedicated bouldering area of >80 m 2 meeting crash matting regulations (as above) 60 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty reset at least bi-monthly Dedicated training area comprising Fingerboards / Campus boards 5. Performance Boulderer – – Dedicated climbing facility that is a member of the ABC. It must have a dedicated bouldering area of >160 m 2 and meet crash matting regulations (as above) 120 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty that are reset at least monthly Dedicated Training area comprising Fingerboards / Campus boards Strength & Conditioning area

NIBAS Course Directors - Overview • To gain approved status with the ABCTT each centre must register a named Course Director. This person will be responsible for the delivery and quality of the Scheme within the organisation • The Course Director is responsible for providing training and induction for any instructional staff and external instructors who wish to deliver and assess the Scheme at that centre • The Course Director will act as the link between the centre and the ABCTT and will be responsible for ordering logbooks and materials from the ABCTT or their nominated Primary Centre • The Course Director is responsible for the development and implementation of a Child Protection Policy at their centre including Disclosure and Barring Service checks and references for instructors where appropriate • The Course Director is responsible for the awarding and recording of NIBAS certificates • In order for a centre to deliver the Scheme at any level the Course Director (and any other registered Assistant Directors) must have attended a NIBAS induction workshop • Inductions and re-inductions for Primary Centres and Level 5 Awarding Centres will be provided solely by the ABCTT, Primary Centres will induct Awarding Centres • If the Course Director leaves the organisation responsible for the climbing centre, the centre must reregister a new Course Director in a timely fashion or risk losing its approval status

Competent Person - Overview • Every Accredited Centre wishing to deliver the Scheme must have access to a named Competent Person, whose role is to support the delivery of the Scheme at the Centre. • This will include • • supporting the original application involvement in staff training operating procedures risk assessment and any other necessary areas • Competent Persons must attend a NIBAS induction provided by the ABCTT, which entitles them to act for as many NIBAS centres as they wish to the highest level for which they received the induction. • A re-induction is due at least every three years for their status to remain valid. They must hold suitable Professional Indemnity insurance for the advice they give. • Competent Persons may conduct inductions for Course Directors of aspirant Awarding Centres up to Level 4, on behalf of the Primary Centre to which they are affiliated, providing they have attended the ABCTT Primary Centre induction.

Competent Person - Overview Competency can be measured through one of three routes: 1. Qualification: the Competent Person (CP) holds a qualification which entitles them to act as a Technical Advisor, such as Mountain Instructor Award, Mountain Instructor Certificate or British Mountain Guide with suitable and relevant recent experience of teaching bouldering. 2. Equivalent Qualification: the CP holds an equivalent qualification, such as Mountain Training Development Coach, with FUNdamentals 3 and suitable and relevant recent experience of teaching bouldering. 3. Prior Experience: the CP is the Chief Instructor or Manager of a Primary Centre or dedicated major bouldering facility, with extensive relevant recent experience.

Any questions…