Ask A MGV Training Follow up Jenny Andon

Ask A MGV Training: Follow up Jenny Andon

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Proofing your Response • Check grammar and spelling • Make sure links are live and direct to the intended website • Breaking up your response with an extra space between paragraphs • DO NOT RESPOND IN ALL CAPS - it feels like you are yelling. Strategically respond: ▪ Directly answer the question first ▪ Ask more questions (diagnostics) if this is needed. ▪ Provide credible links to support or supplement answers – edu; gov ▪ If chemicals are noted, reinforce following the label use instructions

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Question 1. What is eating my roses? I don’t see aphids or evidence of caterpillars, larvae or any sort of mite. The flowers seem not to be affected, but the leaves look chewed , some just have brown spots and some of the older stems have black spots. Is it slugs/snails?

Response A: Possibly. There could be more than one thing happening as I look at the photo provided. First, there are two species of rose slugs, Endelomyia aethiops and Cladius difformis, roam the rose bush foliage when young, sucking the fluid out of the leaves. This causes skeletonization so that the leaves are thin and turn a pale taupe brown in irregular spots and the leaf veins remain in place as dead tissue with empty space between them. Secondly, Leaf cutter bees excise pieces of living rose leaf tissue to line their breeding nests but unlike the other common pests, do not ever eat the leaf tissue. This appears to be similar to the lower portions of the rose plant in the photo. Notice chunks of leaf are actually missing. Meanwhile, as rose slugs mature they begin to chew and digest the leaf tissue entirely, leaving irregular holes with ragged edges which appears could be what we see on the lower portion of the plant. For further information you may look at the Missouri Botanical Garden website for more details and photos to compare. https: //www. missouribotanicalgarden. org/

Response B: It looks like your rose has symptoms of sawfly damage. Check the undersides of the leaves and look for tiny green larvae that look like caterpillars. These are the juvenile stage of an insect called rose slug sawfly. Rose slug sawflies are neither slugs nor flies. They belong to the same order of insects as wasps, bees, and ants (Hymenoptera). Adult female sawflies use their unique ovipositor (egg-laying part) to saw a small slit in a leaf or stem where they lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the larvae feed on the leaf surfaces and cause an etched appearance. Some rose slug larvae chew through leaves entirely. Damaged foliage turns brown and curls up as the season progresses. The best way to manage rose slug sawflies without chemicals is to monitor your plant(s) for damage symptoms and manually remove any larvae (squish them or toss them). Insecticidal soap and horticultural oil work well against these sawflies. Predatory insects and parasitoids help regulate sawfly populations naturally. Adding more flowering plant diversity to your landscape will provide food and habitat for beneficial insects that in turn will help reduce pest problems.

Question 2. My hydrangea bushes are very attractive plants, but do not bloom. Why? How often should they be fertilized, and with what type of fertilizer?

Response A: Hi Jennifer, I'm glad you are reaching out to learn more about your hydrangeas and how to help them bloom at their best! You didn't mention whether your hydrangeas are just not blooming this season but have bloomed in the past, or have never bloomed at all. There are several different types of hydrangea plants that grow in Ohio, and each type has different needs, so a first step would be to determine what type you are growing. If you planted them and know which species and/or cultivar you have, that makes it easier. If you don't know, you may be able to make an identification by consulting the Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder at https: //www. missouribotanicalgarden. org/plantfindersearch. aspx. Once you know which hydrangea you have, you will be able to use this information to discover what might be causing yours not to bloom as expected. Common issues including die-back from cold winter weather; over-pruning or pruning at the wrong time; or soil or drainage problems. OSU Extension's fact sheet on hydrangeas is a good resource for learning more about each of these problems, and is available at https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/hyg-1263. You may find that your hydrangeas do not require additional fertilizer at all, but this fact sheet does provide some information about fertilizer if you should need it. I hope this information will help you solve the mystery of why your hydrangeas aren't blooming as you would like. Please don't hesitate to ask more questions as you continue your research - we're here to help! Best,

Response B: Many questions about why your hydrangea bushes are not blooming. Which cultivar or type of plant are they? Many bloom on "old" wood and others bloom on "new" wood. So if you prune them in the fall and they bloom on old wood you are cutting all the blooms for next year. If you prune them in the spring before they bloom (on new wood) you are cutting off the blooms for summer. If you are fertilizing with high nitrogen that leads to lots of leaves but no blooms. These plants need phosphorus for blooms to form. Best to fertilize in March and again in June. . . not after July. Also, where in the yard are these plants? Hydrangea thrive in morning sun and afternoon shade. Don't do well in full sun which leads to lots of watering and unhealthy plants. Last questions. . . have these plants ever bloomed? How long have you have them? Where in the property are they located? Hope this helps you answer why you hydrangeas are not blooming.

Question 3. I have tiny bugs burrowing in my skin and I can't stop scratching. I've used cortisone and it is not helping. My husband is not having any issues and doesn't see the bugs. What should I do?

Response A: Reassigned back to me Response B: Hello Jennifer, Thank you for your question about the tiny insects which are bothering you. Without a photograph, it is difficult to determine which insect is causing your discomfort. Because this seems to be closer to a health problem, I believe you should see your physician, who should be able to diagnose the problem and offer you medication to relieve your problem. Here are some sites which describe various bothersome insects: https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/ent-66 https: //ask 2. extension. org/kb/faq. php? id=211334 And from Oklahoma: https: //extension. okstate. edu/fact-sheets/human-lice-and-scabies. html Thank you again for your question. Feel free to contact us again about your issue. Sincerely,

Response C: This is difficult to try to answer. Feel this may be scabies. Caused by a mite burrowing under the skin and laying their eggs. They can't be seen with the naked eye. It is contagious so it can spread to another person. It causes a rash and itches intently. So I would seek a medical professional to decide if this is what you have. It is treatable and usually can be resolved in a few days. Good luck and hope you feel better.

Question 4. Which insecticides can I use in my lawn that won't kill pollinators?

Response A: Please click on below link from Colorado State University Extension for a detailed overview of lawn care without pesticides. No matter what product you use, remember to carefully read the label and follow the instructions. https: //extension. colostate. edu/docs/pubs/garden/xcm 221. pdf Response B: Reassigned

Response C: I was happy to see your concern about the bees while solving the problem with the grubs. There are some pesticide products to help but you might want to try some non-chemical approaches first. These white grubs flourish where there are thick layers of thatch. Thus, the first step in managing white grubs is to assess thatch thickness and making plans to correct a thatch problem this fall by hollow-tined core aeration. Remember thatch is made up of shoots (e. g. rhizomes, stolons) that have not yet decayed. Thatch is not produced by grass clippings which are made-up mostly of water and have no woody elements. Introducing oxygen through core aeration helps to hasten thatch decay; it's a little bit like what happens by turning a compost pile. Be careful using a de-thatcher on a lawn with a thick thatch layer. De-thatchers work best to maintain a healthy thatch layer; they can rip up turfgrass along with the thatch if the layer is too thick. The second step is to consider using flowering plants in landscape designs to support natural enemies of white grubs. Research has demonstrated that "pollinator gardens" can provide a boost to various natural enemies that target white grubs such as parasitoid wasps. While this will not provide an immediate solution, it is something to plan for around lawns with a history of grub damage. There also various "preventative" and "curative/rescue" products that are effective against white grubs. As their name indicates, preventative products are intended to prevent grub damage by killing young grubs. Timing is critical for some of these so check the label for best time to apply. Some of the preventive chemicals are chlorantraniliprole (e. g. Acelepryn, Scott's Grub. Ex), imidacloprid (e. g. Merit, Season Long Grub Control, etc. ), thiamethoxam (e. g. Meridian), and clothianidin (e. g. Arena). If grubs are not controlled preventatively, curative/rescue applications can be made using trichlorfon (e. g. Dylox, 24 -Hour Grub Control, etc. ) or carbaryl (e. g. Carbaryl, Sevin, etc. ). Tips on minimizing impacts on "non-target" insects while maximizing the efficacy of all of the grub management products include prepping the turfgrass by mowing and raking away leaves and other debris to support soil contact with the treatment. Mowing turfgrass with blooming clover will also remove the blooms to reduce insecticide exposure to pollinators such as bumble bees. Thatch will interfere with movement of insecticides to the soil which is another reason to assess the thatch thickness and correct a serious problem in the future or use a de-thatcher if the layer is relatively thin. I hope this information is helpful in solving your grub problem. You may want to consult this website for additional information https: //bygl. osu. edu/index. php/node/855

Question 5. I have quite a few brown patches in my yard (image attached). My first thought was grubs but my neighbor tells me it is kind of early for grub damage. Your thoughts and how best to treat it? Thanks!

Response A: There are quite a few causes of brown spots on a lawn. Some clues that these patches may be caused by grubs would be actually seeing them in the lawn and/or increased digging activity from wildlife -such as raccoons, skunks, etc. as they root then out for sustenance. The most definitive method for diagnosis is to perform a soil test. Please let me know if you’d like further information on soil testing. Response B: Jennifer, The photo you included in your question looks very similar to the photos on Ohioline for grub damage. Is your lawn also spongy? That is another clue for grub damage. There a variety of treatments for lawn grubs. A good source of information would be Ohioline. com.

Response C: Jennifer, Thank you for your question about grubs. I will send a response in the next day or so. Jennifer, February is a bit early to have grub activity causing damage to your lawn; however, let's assume that the polar vortex passed over the summer micro-climate at your home in Madison County. Although the photo you sent is a good start, it would be helpful to take a closer look at the brown areas of your yard to identify the correct disease or insect causing the damage. To check for grubs, you can carefully remove a 12" x 12" square of sod and collect the grubs you find in the soil. (You can then return and water-in the square of sod. ) With a close look at the tail end of the grubs, this web page will help you identify the insect: https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/hyg-2510 If you have one of these insects, the following links will give you some background and specific suggestions for treatment: Japanese Beetles - https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/ENT-46 Masked Chafers - https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/ENT-51 Billbugs - https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/HYG-2502 -12 June Beetles - https: //bygl. osu. edu/node/1348 - https: //bygl. osu. edu/index. php/node/294 If you don't find grubs, these links will help you look for other causes and their treatment: Chinch Bugs - https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/HYG-2503 -11 Sod Webworms - https: //www. canr. msu. edu/resources/sod_webworm_tips_for_your_lawn Diseases - https: //bygl. osu. edu/node/1480 If you need further assistance, please don't hesitate to let me know.

Question 6. I have a 3 acre vineyard of pinot grigio grapes. They are covered in a fungus of some sort. Help!!

Response A: Reassigned to me Response B: Grapes as a crop are very prone to a multitude of fungal diseases. While varieties differ in their susceptibility to specific fungi, your Pinot gris grapes are in the group Vitis vinifera which are particularly sensitive to two of the more common fungi, those that cause downy mildew and powdery mildew. Other common fungi that cause disease in grapes include those that cause black rot, phomposis cane and leaf spot, and botrytis (gray mold or bunch rot). The precise symptoms of disease vary in the part of the plant affected, the time of appearance, and how contagious it seems to be. Laboratory diagnosis is challenging, but the same fungicide program will control most of them. Grapes | Fruit Pathology Laboratory (osu. edu) has multiple fact sheets on fungal grape diseases that will be useful in determining what your mold problem may be. Your picture alone does not allow a diagnosis of the specific fungal pathogen. The size of your planting suggests that you have a commercial-type situation, and must be careful to use all chemicals precisely as the label dictates or consider using a licensed pesticide applicator. THE LABEL IS THE LAW. Cultural practices such as drainage, soil character, spacing of plants, and sanitation (removal of dead leaves and fruit) are all helpful in minimizing fungal issues. Paying attention to your grape variety’s special needs for soil p. H and fertilization to help produce healthy vines that can better resist fungal pathogens. Of course, the weather plays a major role year to year in how widespread fungal disease will become. A good fungicide spray program is very important. https: //ohiograpeweb. cfaes. ohio-state. edu/sites/grapeweb/files/imce/pdf_factsheets/2019 -Grape-Fungicide-Spray. Guide-FINAL-sgnqyf. pdf is a good source for developing a spray program for a commercial crop. If you consider yourself a backyard or home grower, Bulletin 780 on “Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings” https: //extensionpubs. osu. edu/controlling-diseases-and-insects-in-home-fruit-plantings/ may have the information you need. If you wish to get a printed copy of either of these, you can get them from your county Extension educator or the Extension Publications Office, The Ohio State University, 216 Kottman Hall, 2021 Coffey Road, Columbus, Ohio 43210 -1044. Additional sources you may find useful are: Early season vineyard disease management - Grapes (msu. edu) Grape Diseases | University of Maryland Extension (umd. edu) https: //ohioline. osu. edu/factsheet/fabe-532 fact sheet on best practices for applying spray 2020 Fungal Disease of Grapevines | Global Science Books - Academia. edu This is a long PDF file, very detailed. https: //ohioline. osu. edu/ search under horticulture, then put “grapes” in search box. This gives MANY factsheets about grapes/fungal diseases. I hope these resources are helpful; your question is a big one with too many variables for me to give you specific recommendations.

Strategically respond: ▪ Directly answer the question first ▪ Ask more questions (diagnostics) if this is needed. ▪ Provide credible links to support or supplement answers – edu; gov ▪ If chemicals are noted, reinforce following the label use instructions What did you like about the response? How could the response be improved?

Next Steps!! Great job, Super impressed! Keep up the good work! Assign to the Ohio State University Master Gardener Volunteers Group!! Next training: Friday, the 26 th at 11 am!!!