AATCC TM 135 2018 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics

AATCC TM 135 -2018 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM 150 -2018 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Dimensional Change • a generic term for changes in the length or width of a fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen. AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Laundering • A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with aqueous detergent solution and normally including rinsing, extraction and drying. AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Why Dimensional Change Matters • Care labels 16 CFR 423 https: //www. ftc. gov/node/119456

Why Dimensional Change Matters • Customer satisfaction • Impacts other fabric/garment properties AATCC TM

Can be Combined with Other Methods § Appearance § Skew/Twist AATCC TM 88 B AATCC TM 179 AATCC TM 88 C AATCC TM 207 AATCC TM 124 § Stain Release AATCC TM 143 AATCC TM 130 AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Scope TM 135 • Flat fabrics • Individual panels of sewn items TM 150 • Garments • Circular knits used in tubular form AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Materials • • Indelible marking pen Ruler or shrinkage scale Conditioning facilities Flat surface for marking and measuring AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Shrinkage Scale • Use with 10 -in or 18 -in benchmarks • Measures % change directly • Be sure to use the correct side of the scale! Shrinkage (-) PERCENT SHRINKAGE 20 20 10 Shrinkage (-) 0 10 10 Growth (+) 0 10 AATCC PO BOX 12215 RESEARCH TRIANGLE PARK, NC 27709 Growth (+) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Specimens: TM 135 Selvage • 3 specimens • Option 1: 380 mm (15 15 in) Option 2: 610 mm (24 24 in) Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long • Different warp & fill yarns • Pink edges as needed • May also be used for TM 124, TM 179, TM 130 AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Specimens: TM 150 Selvage • Garment • 3 specimens (garments) when possible • May also be used for TM 143, TM 179, TM 207, TM 130 AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Conditioning • ASTM D 1776 • Flat, single layer, no tension or On hanger • Air circulation through and around • 21°C ± 2°C (70°F ± 4°F) • 65% ± 5% relative humidity (RH) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Benchmarks: TM 135 Mark 250 - or 460 -mm: L 1 W 1 L 2 W 2 L 3 W 3 For ruler: • Measure to nearest mm, ⅛ in. , or ⅟ 10 in. • Calculate average L • Calculate average W • Measurement A (original) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Benchmarks: TM 135 (narrow) < 25 mm 25 -125 mm 380 mm • Use full width • Mark 250 -mm: L 1 L 2 (if 25 -125 mm wide) • Mark W 1 (optional) • Measure • Calculate average L • Calculate average W • Measurement A (original) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Benchmarks: TM 150 • ≥ 25 mm (1 in) from edges and seams • Mark 250 - or 460 -mm: • W 1 L 1 • W 2 L 2 • W 3 L 3 • Measurement A (original) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Benchmarks: TM 150 • Benchmarks across panels may be used • Mark & report measurement points Mark and measure: Front length Front width AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Laundering Materials • • Automatic washer Tumble dryer or drying facilities Detergent Ballast AATCC

www. aatcc. org/test/washers AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile

Standard Washing Conditions Alternate conditions listed in LP 1 (note as a modification of

1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent • Powder detergent • For “traditional” top-loading washers • 66 g per load AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Standard www. aatcc. org/test/detergent Reference Detergent • No phosphates • No bleach, enzymes, colors, fragrances • Consistency for valid comparison of test results • With or without optical brightener www. aatcc. org/test/washers/#detergent AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Laundering Ballast • 92 cm (36 36 in) hemmed white sheets • Type 1: 100% cotton • Type 3: 50% polyester/ 50% cotton AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Washing Procedure • • • Select machine cycle Select wash temperature Add water Add detergent Add specimens and enough ballast to make 1. 8 -kg (4 -lb) load • Start wash cycle AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Standard Drying Conditions (A) Tumble i. Cotton Sturdy ii. Delicate iii. Permanent Press (B) Line (C) Drip (D) Screen AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Tumble Dry (A) • • Remove from wash immediately after final spin Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer Set exhaust temperature • Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max. • Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max. • Dry completely • Remove immediately AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Line Dry (B) • Remove from wash immediately after final spin • Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion • TM 135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric length in vertical direction • TM 150: Hang specimens on hangers • Dry in still air at room temperature • ≤ 26°C (78°F) • Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Line Dry (B) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile

Drip Dry (C) • Remove from wash immediately after final rinse (soaking wet, before final spin) • Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion • Hang as for line dry AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Screen Dry (D) • Remove from wash immediately after final spin • Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion • Spread on horizontal surface allowing air movement on all sides • Smooth without distorting or stretching • Dry in still air at room temperature • ≤ 26°C (78°F) • Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Screen Dry (D) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile

Number of Laundering Cycles • “Pass” after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles • “Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test or • As agreed between buyer and seller AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Ironing • If specimens would always be ironed by a consumer, iron before measuring • Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Conditioning • Repeat conditioning procedure after final dry or iron AATCC TM 135, 150

Final Measurement: Shrinkage Scale • Read % change directly from scale • Calculate average change in length • Calculate average change in width AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Final Measurement: Ruler • Measure between marked points § Same surface § Same measurement device • For TM 135: § Calculate average length measurement § Calculate average width measurement • Measurement B (after laundering) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Calculation: Benchmarks • Calculate length and width change separately § nearest 0. 1% for laundering § nearest 0. 2% for drycleaning Average Dimensional Change = B-A 100% A • A = initial measurement (avg for TM 135) • B = final measurement (avg for TM 135) AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Calculation: Garments • Calculate change for each garment location § nearest 0. 1% for laundering § nearest 0. 2% for drycleaning • Average length measurements, if applicable • Average width measurements, if applicable AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Interpretation • Negative dimensional change: shrinkage • Positive dimensional change: growth -10% L -10% W -10% L +10% W +10% L +10% W AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Report • • • Sample description Test method (including year) Ballast (Type 1 or 3) Detergent (with out without brightener) Number of laundering cycles (usually 3) Laundering conditions Distortion/wrinkling before laundering Iron setting, if used Modification(s) of test method AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Report • For each direction or garment location: § Direction/location § Average dimensional change to nearest 0. 1% § Number of measurements in average • Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens § Original benchmark distance AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Questions? • Diana Wyman Technical Director, AATCC diana@aatcc. org • Adi Chehna Chair RA 42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods AATCC TM 135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists