7 3 DRAPING SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE DRAPING

7. 3 DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE DRAPING THEORY SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING THEORY SCALP MASSAGE THEORY DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE ESSENTIALS INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY BASIC DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING BASIC SCALP MASSAGE CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | ADVANCED ORGANIZER

FOLLOWING THIS LESSON, YOU WILL BE ABLE TO: • Explain and demonstrate proper draping, shampooing and scalp massage services CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | ADVANCE ORGANIZER

The safety, comfort and protection of the client are all part of the salon professional’s responsibility. The purpose of shampooing is to cleanse the scalp and hair by removing dirt, oils and product buildup. Improper cleansing can lead to accumulation of oil and dirt and cause scalp disorders. Massage: scientific method of manipulating the body by rubbing, pinching, tapping, kneading or stroking with the hands, fingers or an instrument. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

DRAPING THEORY Draping: performed prior to hair care services to protect client’s skin and clothing • Ask client to remove jewelry prior to draping and store in a safe place • Make sure neck of cape does not come in direct contact with client’s skin – use neck strip and/or towel CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

DRAPING GUIDELINES Towel and Plastic Capes: • Used for shampooing, sculpting, designing and chemical services Neck Strip: • Replaces towel following shampoo prior to sculpting services Cloth Cape: • Lighter weight; more comfortable • Used during services on dry hair CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING THEORY The shampoo service is performed prior to most services except certain hair color or chemical straightening services CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

WATER Soft Water: rain water or chemically treated water; generally preferred for shampooing Hard Water: contains minerals; does not allow shampoo to lather freely REMEMBER • Monitor temperature of water before applying to client’s scalp • Always wipe any water to prevent accidents CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

BRUSHING AND COMBING • Removes tangles • Stimulates blood circulation • Removes dust, dirt and product buildup AVOID brushing prior to chemical service or if any cuts or abrasions are evident. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

REMOVING TANGLES FROM WET HAIR After shampoo, tangles should be removed in a specific, methodical manner: • Start at lowest point of tangled area • Start at ends and progress toward scalp • Comb until tangles are removed • Part off another section above first section • Continue removing tangles blending each section together CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

SCALP MASSAGE THEORY Manipulations performed on the scalp to relax muscles and stimulate blood circulation IMPORTANT STEPS • Establish soothing or stimulating rhythm • Maintain contact with client throughout manipulations • Perform manipulations with firm, controlled movements • Keep fingernails at a moderate length to avoid scratching the scalp CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

THE FIVE BASIC MANIPULATIONS OF MASSAGE MANIPULATION DESCRIPTION Effleurage • Light, gliding strokes or circular motions made with palms of hands or pads of fingertips • Relaxing, soothing effect Petrissage • Light or heavy kneading and rolling of the muscles between thumb and fingers • Deep stimulation of muscles, nerves and skin glands Tapotement • Light tapping or slapping movement applied with fingers • Stimulates nerves, promotes muscle contraction and increases blood circulation CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

THE FIVE BASIC MANIPULATIONS OF MASSAGE MANIPULATION DESCRIPTION Friction • Circular movement applied with fingertips or palms with no gliding used • Stimulates nerves and increases blood circulation Vibration • Shaking movement • Highly stimulating CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE ESSENTIALS Shampoos are designed for dry, oily, normal, colortreated and gray hair Hair Conditioners and Rinses • Condition • Soften • Make hair tangle-free • Restore normal p. H • Remove soap residue CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY 1. Do not brush hair prior to chemical service; if any cuts or abrasions are evident, chemical service should not be recommended 2. If shampoo gets into client’s eye, rinse immediately 3. Disinfect shampoo bowl and implements 4. Discard contaminated and non-reusable materials 5. Wipe up any water-spill areas immediately CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

6. Always test water temperature prior to use and during rinsing 7. Ensure water pressure is moderate to strong 8. Decrease pressure during massage manipulations if client expresses sensitivity 9. Keep the back of the cape on the outside of the chair during the shampoo service 10. Remember to detangle hair thoroughly prior to and after the shampoo service CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

11. Wash hands with liquid soap prior to the shampoo service 12. Avoid giving a scalp massage: – If scalp abrasions or a serious scalp disorder are present – Prior to application of a chemical service – If client has history of high blood pressure or heart condition 13. Wear gloves if required CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

BASIC DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING WET HAIR SERVICE DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING – STANDING IN BACK BEFORE SHAMPOO • Wash and sanitize hands • Ask client to remove jewelry and glasses and secure in a safe place • Secure client’s hair • Turn collar inward CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

• Place towel lengthwise over client’s shoulders; cross ends in front • Position plastic cape over towel and secure; remove clip(s) from client’s hair • Examine client’s hair and scalp • Position cape over shampoo chair • Brush hair • Test temperature and pressure of water CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

DURING SHAMPOO • Wet hair • Apply shampoo • Perform scalp massage manipulations • Rinse thoroughly • Repeat shampoo and rinse procedures if necessary CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

AFTER SHAMPOO • Apply rinse or conditioner • Rinse thoroughly • Towel-dry client’s hair • Detangle the hair CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING – STANDING AT THE SIDE WET THE HAIR PERFORM SCALP MASSAGE CONTINUE MASSAGE WHILE LIFTING AND SUPPORTING HEAD CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

RINSE THOROUGHLY CONTINUE RINSING WHILE LIFTING AND SUPPORTING HEAD GENTLY SQUEEZE REMAINING WATER FROM HAIR CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

BASIC SCALP MASSAGE PROCEDURE • Wash and sanitize hands • Drape client for a wet hair service • Detangle hair • Apply scalp product • Perform effleurage scalp manipulations • Perform petrissage scalp manipulations CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

• Perform effleurage scalp manipulations • Perform tapotement • Rotate scalp • Conclude using long, gentle strokes • Shampoo client’s hair • Rinse hair • Dry hair or move to next service CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

AROMATHERAPY FOR THE SCALP Aromatherapy: combination of sense of smell and use of plant extracts and their healing abilities • Essential oils and products containing vitamins and plant extracts address many health and wellness concerns • Therapeutic effects include invigorating scalp, encouraging renewed hair growth, relieving flaking CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE

SELF-CHECK On a sheet of paper numbered 1 -5, answer the following questions. 1. T or F Hard water is generally preferred for shampooing. 2. T or F Frequent use of cream rinses and conditioners can result in product buildup that can leave the hair dull and lifeless. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK 3. T or F Do not brush the hair prior to a chemical service. 4. T or F Perform scalp manipulations with firm, controlled movements. 5. T or F Increase pressure used during scalp massage manipulations if client expresses sensitivity. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK On a sheet of paper numbered 1 -5, answer the following questions. 1. T or F Hard water is generally preferred for shampooing. 2. T or F Frequent use of cream rinses and conditioners can result in product buildup that can leave the hair dull and lifeless. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | SELF-CHECK

SELF-CHECK 3. T or F Do not brush the hair prior to a chemical service. 4. T or F Perform scalp manipulations with firm, controlled movements. 5. T or F Increase pressure used during scalp massage manipulations if client expresses sensitivity. CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | SELF-CHECK

FACE THE FACTS DRAPING THEORY ü Performed prior to hair care services ü Protects client’s skin and clothing SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING THEORY ü Performed ü Soft prior to most services water is generally preferred for shampooing CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTS DRAPING THEORY ü Hard water contains minerals and does not allow shampoo to lather freely ü Brushing or combing hair removes tangles, stimulates blood circulation and removes dust, dirt and product buildup CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTS SCALP MASSAGE THEORY ü Involves manipulations performed on the scalp ü Important • • steps: Establish a soothing or stimulating rhythm Maintain contact with the client Use firm, controlled movements Keep fingernails at a moderate length CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTS DRAPING, SHAMPOOING, AND SCALP MASSAGE ESSENTIALS ü Hair conditioners and rinses are used to condition, soften and make the hair tangle free ü Frequent use of cream rinses and conditioners can result in product buildup that leaves the hair dull and lifeless INFECTION CONTROL AND SAFETY ü Infection control and safety are essential in protecting the health and well-being of you and your client CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | FACE THE FACTS

FACE THE FACTS BASIC DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING ü Draping, shampooing and conditioning preparation and procedures vary based on time and client needs BASIC SCALP MASSAGE ü Basic scalp massage treatments involve scalp manipulations designed to relax clients’ muscles and increase blood circulation CHAPTER 7 TRICHOLOGY | DRAPING, SHAMPOOING AND SCALP MASSAGE | FACE THE FACTS