4 01 Pattern Guide Sheet Pattern Symbols Layout

4. 01 Pattern & Guide Sheet Pattern Symbols Layout Charts Sewing Instructions

Pattern v Inside the pattern envelope you will find the pattern pieces. v Handle them carefully, they are made of tissue paper. v On each piece you will see terms and markings. These will help you construct your garment.

Grain Line Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage. Ø Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray. Ø May be indicated by a straight line labeled grain line. Ø OR Grain Line

Place on fold/Fold line Ø Grain line symbol that required the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric. Ø Usually seen at center front or back.

l May also be represented by only a line with “place on fold” printed. Place on fold

Dots, Squares, or Triangles l Used to match fabric pieces, especially in areas requiring easing like sleeves. l May be with in garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.

Notches l Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces. l Should extend beyond the cutting line. Cut Garment

Double & Triple Notches l Cut them as one long block Cut Garment

l On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as triangles. You should draw the other half before you cut the fabric. Draw this half Garment

Stitching line l Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line. l Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together. Seam allowance l Seam allowance – distance between stitching line and cutting line.

Darts l Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness. l Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines. Stitching line Fold line

Buttonhole Placement l Shows exact location and length of each buttonhole l Indicated by any of these 4 symbols. .

Hemline l Indicates the depth of the hem (how much fabric to turn up for hem) Fold on inner solid line 1 inch hem allowed

Center Front l Indicates the center front of garment. Center front Overlap

Pocket Placement l Indicates the placement of pockets within the garment

Adjustment lines l Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened. Shorten or lengthen here

Additional Information Ø Number of pieces to cut Ø Pattern piece name/number or letter Ø Size Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Guide Sheet v Gives you step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together. v Two main sections of the guide sheet are cutting layouts and sewing instructions. v Also included are sketches and special information.

Design Sketches of style included in pattern Sketches of each pattern piece included Special instructions for marking, alterations, & symbols Cutting Layouts based on view, fabric width, size, and fabric type.

Select your layout diagram based on the view your are making, your fabric width, fabric type, and size. Circle the layout for easy reference. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Fabric Grains Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads. Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch. Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Fabric Folds Lengthwise fold Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together. Match selvages & ends Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Crosswise Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together. Fold should be from selvage to selvage, perpendicular to the selvages. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Center/Double Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together. Selvages should meet in the middle Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Partial Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Placement of pattern pieces Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on first. Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut by each pattern. Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric. Follow layout diagram exactly. Read special instructions Simplicity Pattern

Sewing instructions Follow the sequence exactly Read the written directions. Review the pictorial directions. Refer to the special sewing information. Simplicity Pattern

Work Cited l Weber, Jeanette. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction. New York: Glenco-Mc. Graw Hill, 1997. l Liddell, Louise A. and Carolee S. Samuels, CFCS. Clothes & Your Appearance. Illinois: The Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc. 1996. l Soto, Anne Marie. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book. New York: Simplicity Pattern Company. 1999.