1 st Progress Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS PLANNED

1 st Progress Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS & PLANNED ACTIVITIES LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352 Santa Croce Sull’ Arno BIOKIMICA 13 rd June 2014 Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP 1

First steps taken by INESCOP ACTION DATE B 1. Demonstration of the use of traditional chemical acid dyes in leather dyeing Jan-Jun’ 14 B 2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with acid dyes Jan-Jun’ 14 C 1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Jan-Sep’ 14 E 1. Project management Continuos 2

B 1. Demonstration of use of commercial metal -free acid dyes on leather dyeing Objective: Obtain leathers dyed with different commercial metal-free acid dyes, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes evaluation Tasks: – Selection of commercial metal-free acid dyes: 15 monochromatic samples + 10 combinated samples – Definition of the leather post-tanning process: neutralization, retanning, fatliquoring and dyein – Dyeing test at laboratory level – Evaluation of dyeing baths exhaustion by UV-V Espectroscopy Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP 3

Test & Results control sheets • Test reference • Type of leather and predyeing treatment • Tests on leather: – Fastness properties – Physical test • Test on residual baths 4

Leather pre-dyeing treatment 5

Laboratory level dyeing test 6

Dyeing baths exhaustion (UV-V Espectroscopy) 7

B 2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with metal-free acid dyes Objective: Evaluate properties of commercial metal-free acid dyes in the leather dyeing process, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: – Dye fastness evaluation throuht standard fastness test: fastness to rubbing (wet and dry), light, PVC migration, water, perspiration and washing – Physical properties: tensile strebght, resistance to wear and resistance to heat Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP 8

Fastness to rubbing (dry/wet) 9

Rubbing fastness results RUBBING FASTNESS Pardo coriacide R Havanna coriacide X 3 J Burdeos coriacide 3 B Pardo anaranjado coriacide X 3 R Beige inoderme AN Tabaco oscuro coriacide Verde oliva coriacide Burdeos coriacide FD Navy P/C JRB Negro coriacide Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN Green (yellow/blue 50: 50) Violet (red/blue 50: 50) Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33: 33) Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33: 33) Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25: 25: 25) Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 30: 50) Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 50: 30) Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 40: 40) YELLOW 42 ORANGE 7 RED 131 BLUE 225 Wet 3/4 3 3/4 4 5 4 4 2/3 4 3/4 4 2/3 3/4 4 4 3/4 3/4 4 Dry 4/5 4/5 5 5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5 5 5 4/5 10

Fastness to light 11

Fastness to PVC migration / water spotting 12

Fastness to water / perspiration 13

Fastness to water results FASTNESS TO WATER Wool Acrylic Pardo coriacide R 3/4 4/5 Havanna coriacide X 3 J 2/3 4/5 Burdeos coriacide 3 B 3 4/5 Pardo anaranjado coriacide X 3 R 3/4 5 Beige inoderme AN 4/5 5 Tabaco oscuro coriacide 4/5 5 Verde oliva coriacide 4/5 5 Burdeos coriacide FD 3 4/5 Navy P/C JRB 4/5 5 Negro coriacide 4 4/5 Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ 3/4 4/5 Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN 3/4 4/5 Green (yellow/blue 50: 50) 3/4 4/5 Violet (red/blue 50: 50) 3 4 Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33: 33) 3 4/5 Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33: 33) 1 4/5 Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25: 25: 25) 1 4/5 Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 30: 50) 1 4/5 Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 50: 30) 1/2 5 Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10: 40: 40) 1 4/5 YELLOW 42 2 4/5 ORANGE 7 1 4/5 Polyes 4 4 5 5 5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4 Nylon 2/3 1 1 2/3 4 4 3/4 2/3 2/3 3/4 3 3 1 1/2 1 Cotton 2/3 1/2 2/3 4/5 5 4/5 3 4 3/4 3/4 4 3/4 3 Dicel 2/3 2 4 4/5 5 4/5 4/5 4 4 3/4 3/4 4/5 3/4 14

Fastness to washing 15

C 1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Objective: Quantify and evaluate the environmental impact of dyeing residual bath which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: Chemical analysis of dyeing residual bath by means of standard methods: COD, BOD and biodegradability Responsible: INESCOP 16

COD & BOD results 17

Biodegradability results (BOD/COD) 18

Thanks for your attention 19